Guide to Pearl Shapes
* Mabe/Composite - These pearls are cultivated by attaching Mother of Pearl to the mussel shell, which is then coated with nacre by the mussel.
Cultured Pearls: an Introduction
These 'tears of God' are the oldest recorded gems, dating back to the Roman Empire when it was believed that they fell, moonlight filled into the oceans to be swallowed by oysters.
Traditional Properties of Pearls
They were accredited with the power to provide protection and healing, possessing one of which signified great nobility. In Asia, to this day, crushed pearl powder is applied to the face to keep it smooth and young looking.
Freshwater Pearls
As the chances of finding a natural pearl is less than one in ten thousand, the culturing (farming) of pearls has been going on for around 100 years.Unlike seawater pearls, which come from the oyster, freshwater pearls hail from the mussel, which lives in inland rivers and lakes. Freshwater culturing began in Lake Biwa in Japan in the 1930s and spread to China in the 1990s.
Culturing Freshwater Pearls
Culturing mimics the natural process of the mussel shell opening to receive an irritant, which causes nacre (the substance forming the mussel shell) to be secreted. The longer the irritant remains, the thicker the nacre and the better the pearl. Depending on the size of pearl desired, growing takes between 2 and 6 years. Each mussel can produce up to 3 harvests. Whereas perfectly round seawater pearls obtain their shape from a bead inserted into the nucleus of the oyster, freshwater pearls are 100% nacre, and it is this, which makes the shape of each pearl slightly unique.
Pearls Colours
Naturally occurring colours are white, pink, peach, golden and grey, depending on the type of mussel. To get other colours, small quantities of metal or dye are added to the water.
Signs of Quality
There is no set international standard, but the most expensive freshwater pearl should have:
- High lustre (the brilliance of light reflected on the pearl’s surface)
- Thick and smooth nacre
- Round shape
- No blemish
Real or not?
To decide whether a cultured pearl is real:
- The 'tooth test' is a tried and tested method — rub the pearl along the top of the bottom teeth. A real pearl feels rough and grainy due to its crystalline composition.
- Real pearls are colder, heavier and less regular than their imitations.
Everlasting or not?
Being organic, pearls are actually conditioned by the moisture and oil secreted from the skin when worn, and when properly cared for, are very durable. Sizable pearls are usually strung on silk thread with knots separating each one to hold it in place.
- Pearls should be restrung every couple of years as the silk thread slackens.
- Avoid contact with water, which although not harming the actual pearl, weakens the thread.
- Avoid putting your pearls in contact with chemicals and wipe with a damp, natural cloth in gentle downward motions.
- Keep your pearls separate from other jewellery to prevent scratching.
- Put your pearls on after applying perfume / cosmetics.
